The Restaurant List: A Belle Époque for African-American Cooking


A few months ago, when I read the New York Times article on African-American cooking, by Jeff Gordinier, it was a welcome surprise. Yet, it was a great disappointment as well, because there are no links to each restaurant nor the books listed in the article. Nor is there a summary list, which would be nice to refer to later.

Much like the “Big List of free yoga classes in Boston that I created, since it’s a list that I want that nobody else has put together, at least that I know of, maybe I need to do it for myself. So I am creating another list for myself again. But of course, I want to share it with you too!

Below is a list with links to each restaurant named in the article and the locations by city and state. For those of us living in these areas or planning to travel to them, this restaurant list may help us to find some great places to eat.

Hopefully many of us will get a chance to try these restaurants. Happy eating!

+ + +

Salare  (Seattle, WA)

Brown Sugar Kitchen  (Oakland, CA)

1300 on Fillmore (San Francisco, CA)

FarmerBrown (San Francisco, CA)

Willie Jane (Venice, CA)

Post & Beam (Los Angeles, CA)

The Cecil (Harlem, NY)

Minton’s (Harlem, NY)

The Grey (Savannah, GA)

The Fat Ham (Philadelphia, PA)

Sbraga & Company (Jacksonville, FL)

Chef Benjamin Dennis (Charleston, SC)

Husk  (Nashville, TN)

+ + +
Photo by Rajesh TP from Pexels

{You Pick Six} An Interview with Founder of Boston Foodie Tours: Audrey Giannattasio

Audrey Giannattasio_Boston Foodie Tours If you follow Audrey Giannattasio on Twitter, you can see that winter weather isn’t stopping her from leading her food tours!

However, it was on a very warm summer day back in 2011, when I first met Audrey. As part of a small group of food bloggers, we had a great time touring specialty shops and restaurants in the North End, experiencing authentic Italy in Boston.

Since then, Audrey founded her own successful business, Boston Foodie Tours. For three years in a row, she has won TripAdvisor’s Certificate of Excellence. She was also featured on Chronicle, a local television program bringing us stories about New England.

If you’re visiting Boston during a vacation, for a business trip or just taking a day trip into the city, you’ll have a great time on one of her tasty tours!

But now, let’s get to know Audrey a bit better. She’s number ten in the interview series, You Pick Six!

* * *

What is a favorite simple recipe to prepare at home?
Toast with mashed avocado, Kosher salt, freshly-grated pepper, and olive oil. Lunch nearly every day!

What is some of the best advice you’ve ever received?
“Don’t let anyone define you.” I’m just sorry that it took me fifty years to get it right! No one will ever care about you and your future as much as you will. If you’re truly going to reach your maximum potential, you must tune out the naysayers, leave any emotional baggage behind, and run your own race. When you find that place where you’re meant to be, the world will embrace you, and you will embrace yourself!

What is a favorite childhood food memory?
Picking large, purple grapes from the backyard vines in East Boston with my Italian-speaking, maternal grandmother, and my mother’s Sunday dinners, with freshly-made “gravy” – including meatballs and my beloved pig’s feet – and mostly store-bought pasta.

What do you think that most people don’t understand about food?
That creating good food isn’t necessarily about being an accomplished cook. Rather, it begins and ends with quality ingredients, such as a freshly-made mozzarella or a true Extra Virgin Olive Oil. What you put in is what you get out.

GoodHousekeepingCookbook

What is a favorite cookbook?
My favorite, most-used cookbooks are Ina Garten’s, whose recipes are both simple and reliable. My most valued and cherished cookbooks, however, are Marguerite Buonopane’s the North End Italian Cookbook, from which I learned as a young woman how to cook my mother’s Italian-American peasant dishes after she passed away; and my mother’s 1955 Good Housekeeping cookbook that I inherited.

How did food become an important part of your life?
My mother! Cooking was her way of demonstrating her love for others, and, perhaps, the only skill in which she had great confidence. Though we were on a tight budget, she could always stretch a meal for last-minute guests, who were often sent home with freshly-picked vegetables from our garden, and/or food gift bags.

* * *

Thank you so much for participating Audrey!

+ + +
Photos: Provided by Audrey Giannattasio.

Harvard University Dining: Meatballs Inspired by the Art of Corita Kent

Corita Kent Makes Meatballs SingBack in January, I wrote a post about a Corita Kent art exhibit in Pittsburgh. Those of us in the Boston area know her work from the bright colors on the gas tank by the expressway. But her art extends far beyond that.

Last month, a new exhibit of her work called, “Corita Kent and the Language of Pop” made its debut at Harvard Art Museums. The exhibit does not end until May 8, 2016*, so we have time to plan to see it — for those of us who are local or even if you are planning a trip to the Boston area. I will definitely make my way over there!

As a celebration of the exhibit, last week Harvard University Dining Services hosted a Corita Night in the dining halls. They asked, “what would happen if food and art collided?”

The Harvard Gazette reported that Chefs answered the question by creating meatballs inspired by her image “song about the greatness,” which was used in a DelMonte ketchup ad and reads “Makes meatballs sing.”

Luke Parker, Winthrop House’s senior chef, drew on his love of spice and dished out Thai chicken meatballs seasoned with curry, lemongrass, and coconut milk. …

Over in Leverett House, chef Kathleen Smith drew on her travels in Mexico — and her Mexican boyfriend — to create the night’s menu. Her albondigas came drenched in a spicy chipotle sauce.

Sounds like a delicious menu and shows how Corita Kent‘s art is timeless and continues to inspire us all.

*Updated 4/3/2016* I was just watching a segment on CBS Sunday Morning about Corita Kent and realized that I got the dates wrong on this post. Unfortunately the exhibit at Harvard ended in January and I missed it again! Ugh! Well, if you are near San Antonio, you do have until May 8th to see it.

+ + +
Image Credit: song about the greatness, © Courtesy of the Corita Art Center, Immaculate Heart Community, Los Angeles, Harvard Art Museums/Fogg Museum, Margaret Fisher Fund.

Havana Bikes: A Short Film

Since President Obama announced that the American policy towards Cuba was changing, most of us in the United States are in favor of it, according to a new poll.

Both Cubans and Americans seem to be gearing up for travel. Airbnb tweeted out some new listings of places to stay in Cuba.

A short film that I found online called Havana Bikes by Kauri Multimedia shows the ways that Cubans have preserved old bikes and made new modes of transportation from them. Not necessarily because of love for old bikes, but out of necessity in order to get around.

As business opportunities and trading grows between the United States and Cuba, these old bikes may soon be a thing of the past.

Havana Bikes has a great soundtrack and shows some of the bicycle creations that have developed over the years. It’s a glimpse into a particular place at a particular time that is drawing from the past and present, but may look so very different in the future.

Recently Read: Provence, 1970: M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, James Beard, and the Reinvention of American Taste

Book Cover, Provence, 1970: M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, James Beard, and the Reinvention of American TasteWhile looking at the new books section of the library, I happened to see Provence, 1970. The names immediately struck me and I was intrigued. The synopsis convinced me it would be good.

Provence, 1970 is about a singular historic moment. In the winter of that year, more or less coincidentally, the iconic culinary figures James Beard, M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, Richard Olney, Simone Beck, and Judith Jones found themselves together in the South of France. They cooked and ate, talked and argued, about the future of food in America, the meaning of taste, and the limits of snobbery. Without quite realizing it, they were shaping today’s tastes and culture, the way we eat now. The conversations among this group were chronicled by M.F.K. Fisher in journals and letters—some of which were later discovered by Luke Barr, her great-nephew. In Provence, 1970, he captures this seminal season, set against a stunning backdrop in cinematic scope—complete with gossip, drama, and contemporary relevance.

Great change never happens in a vacuum and no one person does it alone. So it was especially interesting to read about how these great food writers all knew one another. They worked together and socialized together.  As I was finishing up the book last night, I put on the TV to see what was on and happened to catch the last hour of Julie & Julia. What serendipity!

The book discusses how this rarefied circle of friends sometimes were not so friendly. We also see how the torch was passed with the introduction of Alice Waters toward the end. As I thought about my recent blog post on food writers of color, it made me consider how many food stories have yet to be written about.

One of the things that I found especially sad and surprising about the book is how James Beard was described. When I think of James Beard, I think of the awards and picture a very large and smiling figure. Everyone was worried about him. His love of food was killing him. He was trying to lose weight and was under a doctor’s care. His legs were swollen and his mobility was greatly impacted. Beard is so famous for the food he cooked and wrote about, but he suffered for it.

If you love food and food writing, then I highly recommend the book. Or even if you’re just interested in a slice of life piece. Learning about a very distinct period of time in a particular place.

We probably all can remember a certain time and place with good friends that we will never forget. That forever may have changed who we were at the time and led us to become who we are now. Or maybe was just a good time that now serves as a beautiful memory when we need it.

While the book describes a lot of food, there are no specific recipes. However, towards the very end, there is a very delicious sounding cocktail, on page 282, that is mentioned. I’d like to try it. Maybe you would too. So below is an excerpt in which the author describes part of his July 2010 trip to Provence.

Yet another old friend — we had a full house, even after my father and grandmother had departed the previous week — joined us in the kitchen and announced that he would be making a cocktail, a new invention in fact. It would be called “The Plascassier.” Into the blender went a basket of raspberries, fresh mint, lemon juice, and vodka. This liquid was poured judiciously into the bottoms of glasses, and then topped with Laurent-Perrier champagne.

It’s still pretty cold outside, but this sounds like a cool and refreshing summer drink that I can imagine adapting to suit my taste. Believe me. It will be blogged.

+ + +
Photo Credit: Amazon